

Our next stop was Yosemite National Park. There are five entrances to the park, four on the west side and one on the east. Since we were coming from the east naturally that would be the closest one to use. But normally that entry does not open until July since it is at high elevation and covered with snow until then. In fact, most of the main road is impassable until late in the season. However, this year there was a dearth of the white stuff in the Sierra Mountains. This is bad, because snow on the mountains later results in water down below. No snow means less H2O is available.
At the same time, no snow also meant that the road was open, so we got to travel through the park from one side to the other, viewing all the different environments Yosemite offers. We entered at the Tioga Pass entrance at 9945 feet of elevation, moseyed through Tuolumne Meadows, one of the largest high-elevation meadows in the Sierra Nevada, stopped for a picnic at beautiful Tenaya Lake, took a short hike from Olmstead Point, and eventually exited on the west to our camping home for the next few days.
The most prominent features of Yosemite are the domes: Basket Dome, Daff Dome, Doda Dome, Domey Dome Dome, etc. They are giant, and I do mean giant, slabs of granite formed from geologic activity about a bazillion years ago. It’s fun to imagine the earth stretching and shaking to give birth to these babies. These stone walls make rock climbing here very popular. You may recall Alex Honnold’s free solo climb of El Capitan. RunningBarb did not attempt such a feat. This time.

Another ubiquitous feature of Yosemite is the name John Muir. John Muir this, John Muir that, blah blah blah. I knew he was instrumental in getting Yosemite designated a national park, and he was also the founder of the Sierra Club. I didn’t know much else, but by happy coincidence I went to a park ranger talk on a “topic of [the ranger’s] choice,” and that topic turned out to be John Muir. Does RunningBarb live a charmed life or what?
Muir went backpacking over mountains and into forests with little more than the clothes on his back. Spending weeks in the woods at a time you might think he picked up a few hunting skills and ate himself some nice fat fish or a succulent squirrel. But no, he brought along his generation’s version of a Cliff bar, which was hardtack. That’s it. Actually, a Cliff bar tastes better. A lot better, to be honest. And, okay, I guess he ate a few berries here and there, but this careful-don’t-break-your-tooth meal was his go-to. And he didn’t drop in at his local REI to forage for a hyper light tent or a toasty roasty sleeping bag. That man was austere. Ranger Bob acknowledged that the National Park Service would never give him a backcountry permit today.

Credit: National Park Service

While in the park book shop, I picked up a book called “Meditations of John Muir.” This book showed me how Muir found holiness in nature. Here is one of his contemplations:
The most famous and accessible of these cañon valleys, and also the one that presents their most striking and sublime features on the grandest scale, is the Yosemite, situated in the basin of the Merced River at an elevation of 4000 feet above the level of the sea. It is about seven miles long, half a mile to a mile wide, and nearly a mile deep in the solid granite flank of the range. The walls are made up of rocks, mountains in size, partly separated from each other by side cañons, and they are so sheer in front, and so compactly and harmoniously arranged on a level floor, that the Valley, comprehensively seen, looks like an immense hall or temple lighted from above.
But no temple made with hands can compare with Yosemite. Every rock in its walls seems to glow with life. Some lean back in majestic repose; others, absolutely sheer or nearly so for thousands of feet, advance beyond their companions in thoughtful attitudes, giving welcome to storms and calms alike, seemingly aware, yet heedless, of everything going on about them. Awful in stern, immovable majesty, how softly these rocks are adorned, and how fine and reassuring the company they keep: their feet among beautiful groves and meadows, their brows in the sky, a thousand flowers leaning confidingly against their feet, bathed in floods of water, floods of light, while the snow and waterfalls, the winds and avalanches and clouds shine and sing and wreathe about them as the years go by, and myriads of small winged creatures birds, bees, butterflies–give glad animation and help to make all the air into music. Down through the middle of the Valley flows the crystal Merced, River of Mercy, peacefully quiet, reflecting lilies and trees and the onlooking rocks; things frail and fleeting and types of endurance meeting here and blending in countless forms, as if into this one mountain mansion Nature had gathered her choicest treasures, to draw her lovers into close and confiding communion with her.
He gives words to the feeling I experience when I am in nature. Awe. You look around, and all you see are miracles.

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