

Astute readers may recall that a few posts ago RunningBarb and Mr. K were journeying through the western United States, with stops in all kinds of exotic and interesting places. Let’s pick up where we left off.
After leaving the site of the famous dino tracks, we continued heading north. On the way we needed to mail some letters while doing our laundry, so we stopped at the Tonalea, Arizona Post Office, where you can do both at the same time. Yes! Laundry and mail! Two errands in one! I’m sure you’ve often wondered why your local post office doesn’t join with a nearby laundromat to make things easier for everybody. Clearly Tonalea is leading the way.

Next stop, Mesa Verde National Park. This is the site of ancient cliff dwellings built way back when. They were the condos of their time, way before homeowners associations and zoning requirements ruined everything. It was only May but it already felt like an inferno. But these guys looked like pretty clever dwelling places, high up, shaded and sheltered. They were created when people knew it made sense to build with the environment, not against it. There was a lot to look at. There are more than 600 cliff dwellings, Cliff Palace, the “largest known cliff dwelling in North America,” and various houses and temples.
We saw the sites and did a few (hot) hikes. After a few days we moved on to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

Really, in the west, just about everything is a canyon. The Black Canyon is like the Grand Canyon, only smaller. It’s like Kings Canyon, too. According to the website “National Park Posters,” a scientific source of information if I ever heard of one, Kings Canyon is the deepest, followed by the Grand Canyon, then the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Poor little Great Basin Canyon comes in last. Not so Great I guess. Or maybe they used that name just to fool you.
As in the Grand Canyon, you can hike around the rim, or you can take yerself all the way down to the bottom. (And back up, presumably.) It does not actually sound like a walk in the park. The National Park Service warns: Wilderness routes are not trails; they are unmarked, physically demanding, very steep scrambles with loose rock.
Whoa, you better eat your Wheaties if you want to try one of these babies. One of the trails described on the web site is the Tomichi Route:
This route is considered the steepest South Rim route and is very difficult. The entire length of the route is loose rock and receives full sun exposure. There are several steep inclines near the top of the route that require scrambling. Use extra caution while descending.
The distance down is one mile, with 1960 feet of descent. For comparison, this is the distance of three and a half Washington Monuments. Good luck!
We did some hiking and tooling around in that park – full disclosure, we did not scramble down to the bottom or back up – and then were on to our next destination: Glenwood Springs, Colorado and one of my favorite places ever, the Yampah Vapor Caves.
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