What Happened Next

Man plans, God laughs.

– Yiddish Proverb

Wooden slatted walls with stuffed, antlered elk mounted on a stone fireplace.
Johns Brook Lodge

Two days after we climbed Colvin and Blake we were ready for our next set of mountains: Basin, Saddleback, and Haystack. We would access these from Johns Brook Lodge (JBL), a bunk house tucked three and a half miles into the woods. To get there you leave your vehicle at a place called “The Garden” (nicest name for a parking lot I have ever heard) and hike to the place. 

We had planned to spend our first day walking in, the second summiting Basin and Saddleback, the third Haystack, and the fourth out. However, as time got closer we kept reading about how quickly The Garden fills up, especially on weekends. We would be there on a Sunday morning. At the last minute we decided to arrive early in the morning to make sure we got a parking spot.

We arrived around 4:30 a.m. The lot was two-thirds empty. That’s the last time RunningBarb takes parking advice from strangers on the Internet. No matter. We waited until it was a little bit light, then were on our way. We arrived at JBL around 8:15. Now we had a decision to make. We could stick with the original plan and not hike that day, or we could take advantage of our early start and climb at least one peak. We decided on the latter and were on our way around 9:00 toward Saddleback. We hadn’t gotten very far when it started to rain. That did not seem like a big deal. We have hiked in the rain in the Adirondacks many times. Plus, rain was predicted for the next two days, so it seemed unavoidable. 

The first few miles weren’t difficult. The trail was wide and well-marked. There was the usual mud and rocks, but nothing dramatic. After a bit we came to a few giant rock faces. These were a little trickier. They were steep and, with the rain, slippery. We took our time and kept going. Our waterproof jackets were not so waterproof after all, and we began to be soaked through. 

Soon we came to a set of ladders, which were a welcome sight. We continued up. There was more rock face, then a muddy trail. Eventually we were at the top of Saddleback. It was exposed and windy there, so we immediately turned back without taking time to eat our celebratory Snickers bar. I was getting really cold. I stopped for a minute to pull a wool hat out of my pack. 

What goes up must come down, so we headed back in the direction of the lodge. Again, a muddy trail, a rock face, and more trail. By then RunningBarb was starting to warm up. The hat was helping, and the rain had stopped. The arms on my jacket were starting to dry out, and what was that I saw in front of me? A shadow? I looked toward the sky to see the sun peeking out from behind a cloud. This hike was starting to look up. (Yes, I know we were going down.) All right, then! I was feeling pretty good and thinking Wow, I just bagged my third peak of the trip, and I only have six more to achieve my goal of becoming a – and then crash!

“Owwwwwww!”

I looked behind me to see Mr. K sprawled out prone on rock. 

Oh. That’s not good. 

I didn’t say or do anything. I knew (from experience) that once you fall on a hike you need a minute or two to get up and move on. I waited.

Soon he sat up and rubbed his shoulder. “This really hurts,” he moaned.

Oh. That’s not good.

“Can I do anything?” I lamely asked. I wondered if we were going to need help. Mr. K had a satellite app on his phone (iPhone 15 Pro in case you are curious), but it would be hours before anyone would arrive. We were still wet, and if we stayed and waited would get colder. We had space blankets with us. Do they really work to keep you warm?

After a few moments he stood up. That was good.

“I can’t lift my left arm,” he reported.

Oh. That’s not good.

As mentioned about 150 times in this blog, climbing 46-ers is a full body experience. How would he manage with the sudden inability to use a limb?

Well, maybe he couldn’t move his arm, but he could move his legs, so we slowly and gingerly made our way down the ladders, over some more rock faces, and eventually back to the muddy part of the trail. He was in pain, but kept soldiering and shouldering on and on until we finally got back to JBL.

And to our surprise, sitting on the porch rocking chairs, was a gaggle of emergency medical technicians.

Rainbow above trees in a blue sky.

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The First Two

Sign in the woods that reads "Gill Brook Cutoff" and an arrow with "Indian Head, Colvin, Nippletop."\

After making a few stops along the way to visit friends and family we arrived in the Adirondacks. We had booked a room in a typical Adirondack guest house: pine cone themed bed spread, dark walls, and two electrical outlets. We felt right at home.

The first peaks on our list were Colvin and Blake. To get to the trail, first you need to make parking reservations. Not because so many people want to park in that specific lot, but because the number of people in the area is controlled. The two mountains are accessed through the Adirondack Mountain Reserve (AMR), a privately-owned parcel of land. The AMR has provided an easement to the New York Department of Environmental Conservation to allow hikers through. (Wonder how long it took those guys to settle that little legal matter.)

Large, elegant, 1890's style, four story hotel with a mountain in the background.

We made our reservation and set out. After the attendant checked our booking we parked, then headed down Lake Road, which leads to a number of trails. On the way we passed through the Ausable Club, a community founded in the late 1800s. Coming here feels like stepping back in time. There is a large sprawling hotel built in 1890. I have no idea how you reserve a room there. Dinner is served at the hotel, and you have to dress for it. No hiking boots in the dining room for sure. There are magnificent bungalows tucked into the woods all over the place. A huge golf course. Tennis courts. Also lots of “No Trespassing” signs. Hey, they don’t let just any ol’ body in. At any rate, it sure it lovely to walk through.

Sign that reads "All Public Foot Travel: No public services available; Access is restricted to designated access routes; No standing or sitting on or around access routes; When approaching a vehicle all foot travel must safely move to one side of the road, stop, and yield until the vehicle has safely passed."

And rambling along the road is great. It is relatively flat (by Adirondack standards), wide enough for a single car, and covered with smooth gravel. No rocks or mud. You get to have more than three miles each way count towards your hike even though the pacing is easy. Part of the way down Lake Road you come to another sign in kiosk where your reservation is checked. No metal detectors, though.

So, we were taking a pleasant walk and eventually arrived at the Gill Brook trail head. Now the real climbing began. It was fairly gentle in the beginning and became steeper as we strode on. Lots of giant rocks, of course, but someone had kindly built a ladder on one of the larger faces to help with the ascent. Thank you, trail crew!

Heavy ladder attached to steep rock face.

Climbing Colvin and Blake is an out-and-back excursion. You go up to the top of Colvin and down the other side toward Blake. Then you trudge up to the summit of Blake, where there is a big rock with the word “Blake” amateurly sketched into it.* That’s how you know you are in the right place. Then you turn around and go back down toward Colvin, then again up to the top of Colvin, then down toward Lake Road, then the three plus miles on Lake Road back to your car. 

Large rock with the words "Hi" and "Blake!" scratched into it.

Doing Colvin and Blake was a walk in the park. The Adirondack Park, that is. We slogged through lots of mud and over rocks, we slipped and slid and pulled ourselves up holding on to tree branches and dealt with all the usual Adirondack mess. The hike turned out to be 15.4 miles with over 4700 feet of climbing.

It was getting pretty late and our stomachs were starting to catch up with our legs. On the way back to our guest house we moseyed on over to the Ausable Inn – a place where they do let just any ol’ body in. There we devoured most of the food on the menu.

Indoor sign that reads "Ausable Inn: Rooms, Meals, Legal Beverages," with other signs advertising beer, and a dart board.

Next we headed back to the room for a hot shower and a good read before sleep.

It was a good day. 

Mountain with a half moon behind it.

*It must be said here that scratching stuff into rocks is a clear violation of Leave No Trace principles.

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Ups and Downs

Green mountains with blue sky, with a rocky stream in the foreground.

Well, here we are planning our next trip to the Adirondacks. Astute readers may recall that RunningBarb had set her sights on becoming an Adirondack 46-er. “What on earth is that?” you ask. Well, there are 46 mountains in the Adirondacks above 4000 feet. If you climb all of them you get to call yourself a 46-er. This entitles you to all sorts of special benefits, like being allowed to pay money to receive a letter certifying you as a 46-er, buy 46-er merch, shell out some bucks for a 46-er magazine subscription, and all kinds of other goodies. 

Mr. K had started climbing these babies when he was eight and dragged invited me along to climb a bunch so he could finish. So he has been done since 2009. I have been trying to catch up ever since. Sharp readers with good memories may recall my epic fail trying to climb Donaldson, Emmons, and Seward, then Haystack in 2023, then my fascinating and enthralling medical adventures and return to Seward (and Seymour) in 2025. Now I have nine mountains left. When, oh when would be the best time to tackle them? The answer, like the answer to most questions involving timing, is now. So – we have been preparing.

We will be backpacking for some of those days. We want to make sure we eat enough in the back country and also that the food we bring tastes good. Nothing is worse (well, to be honest, lots of things are worse) than to spend a hard day on the trail wrestling with mud, rocks, boulders, stream crossings, losing your way, then finding it again, and finally coming back to camp and getting a teeny weeny meal. We decided that our backpacking dinners would be tuna pasta. This would cover all the Major Food Groups: protein, fat, carbohydrates, cheese, mayonnaise, and Tabasco. 

Now, how do you bring mayonnaise in your pack? Well, any self-respecting backpacker will tell you that you can’t. But what do they know? Undeterred, we tried to find a way to make it work. We came upon a simple solution. You know those little packets you see in restaurants sometimes? We’ll just bring a few of those. Problem solved.

Turns out that the smallest number of packets you can buy is 200. Lemme tell you, I am at the point in my life where, if I want mayonnaise in the back country, gosh darn it, I’m going to have it. So we ordered a box of 200. Guess what – it’s really a lot! But I am already thinking about what to do with the leftovers. Maybe give them out for Halloween. All the boring houses give out full size Snickers bars, boxes of Mike and Ike’s, and bags of M&Ms. I think it’s time for a new trend. I’m sure the kids will thank me for it.

Even though we are regular campers and thought we had all the camping gear on the planet that two human beings could possible own, it turns out we didn’t. Camping and backpacking are not always the same. We needed more stuff. So we sprung for a new backpack for Mr. K, light sleeping pads for the both of us, a microscopic stove, featherweight pots for cooking, new trekking poles for me, and who knows what-all. For what we spent on equipment for a few days of deprivation in the woods we could have stayed a week at the Four Seasons. But no matter, it’s all about the experience.

We also had to train to be ready for those peaks. How best to get in shape for mountain climbing when you leave at sea level? Why, you go to Weverton Cliff! It’s the steepest place I know of in the area. Weverton Cliff is a section of the Appalachian Trail that offers a beautiful view of the Potomac River. To get there from the road you have to hike a mile up, with around 500 feet of elevation gain. So we took a few hikes there. That is up to the top, then down. Then up. Then down. Etcetera. My longest day on that trail saw more than 12 miles of hiking and more than 3000 feet of elevation. Our planned hardest hiking day in the Adirondacks was more than 14 miles with 3300 feet of elevation. That seems within reach. Of course, that does not figure in trail conditions, which, as has been made clear above include mud, rocks, boulders, stream crossings, and losing your way. Plus, there could be rain. And bears. But we can’t control everything. I think we are as ready as we will ever be. 

That mayonnaise sure is going to taste great. 

Box full of small packets of Hellman's mayonnaise.

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Lights and Sounds

Lightning against a dark sky.
Credit: Drew Medlin

After many weeks on the road it was time to head home. We always end up stopping in Kansas. Normally we stay at Cedar Bluff State Park, where we always get a nice, private campsite with a great view of the reservoir. This time we ventured into Wilson State Park, where we had a nice, private campsite with a great view of its reservoir. (Kansas has 24 reservoirs.) Reservoirs may not be so great environmentally, however, they provide lots of fun recreational activities.  

When RunningBarb was walking back from the shower house, I noticed a light blink out of the corner of my eye. What’s wrong with my eye? I wondered. Then I noticed it again, and again, these times with a full-on view. The sky was flashing, and now there was lightning added to the mix. Looked pretty cool.

As night fell the blinking and glinting continued. It didn’t seem to be moving any closer or farther away, as you might expect from a storm. As I crawled into bed in the van it kept going. I lie back and watched through the windshield of the van as the sky lit up and darkened and the lightning flickered. It went on this way for hours. I was captivated by how beautiful it was. There was never any thunder or rain, just the brilliant light popping and sparkling. The sky was bringing out its flashiest artists for anyone looking up.  

After a while I fell asleep, and sometime during the night I woke up to the sound of the wind in the trees. The night lights were still going, and now they had an added element. I tried to stay awake to take it in. I finally closed my eyes to the sound of the rustling of the leaves. 

As dawn came about the birds started warbling and crooning, offering me stirring chirrups to accompany the start of my day. Soon the sun was up, and so was I.

My night experience was wonderland of sights and sounds. I was so grateful for the time spent traveling and the opportunity to pass this time in nature. Even though it was from the inside of a Toyota Sienna

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Casa Bonita, Baby

While in Colorado we dropped in on an iconic landmark located in a shopping center in Lakewood, Colorado, just outside of Denver. How could we not?

Originally opened in 1974, Casa Bonita was part of a restaurant chain first established in Oklahoma City. It was successful for a while, but later went downhill. It closed in 2020 for COVID, then the owners filed for bankruptcy in 2021. Soon after, the creators of the television show South ParkTrey Parker and Matt Stone, bought it and sunk buckets of money into its renovation.

Casa Bonita is truly one of a kind. From the outside it looks like a giant pink Spanish bell tower. When we arrived dozens of people were milling about, looking for the correct line to go enter. Basically, the choice depended on how much you paid for your reservation. One of The Darlings’s significant others had scored for us a “premium” reservation, so la-dee-dah! After queuing up at the right place and going through the metal detector we were escorted into the building. The inside is a combination of a Mexican village and Disney World. There are imitation houses, fake store fronts, and all sorts of people in character roaming around. It’s silly and cute. 

Man in red swim trunks standing on top of a rock above a crowd, with a waterfall behind him.

The highlight of the place was the cliff diving. RunningBarb remembers ABC’s Wide World of Sports broadcasting this sport on Saturday afternoons. I was enthralled by the beauty of the cliffs, the turquoise of the water, and the daring of the divers to fly as far as 135 feet or 41 meters below. 

Now, at Casa Bonita the divers travel a shorter distance to the water, but you get the idea. Our premium reservation gave us a close up and personal look at the guys, which was fun. They smiled and waved at us. They took a plunge every 15 minutes or so. 

The menu was small, and the meals were good. RunningBarb ordered cheese enchiladas. Plus the waitress brought countless bowls of chips and salsa. So, one of us is 6’2”, okay? I also drank a margarita cuz, well, Mexico. Ish. At the end they bring out sopaipillas, which are fried pastries with honey. They were still warm when they were delivered. Killer.

Scrawled words on wooden sign in front of rock wall: "Huge Monster Inside, Don't Get Ate!"

You had your reserved table for one hour, so you could not exactly dally. We finished eating and went off to other places to explore. There was Black Bart’s Cave, with fake treasure and skeletons, a balloon artist, a mariachi band, a puppet show, and who knows what-all. Then we checked out the other places where you could spend more money: a game room, a few bars, and a souvenir shop. As I said, Disney World.

It was totally fun, and RunningBarb highly recommends this place for a visit next time you are in the Denver area. 

Stone Mexican mythical figure with electric candles at the bottom and a red background.

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Steamy

Credit: Rotten Tomatoes

After leaving Black Canyon of the Gunnison we embarked on a long drive through some of the most stunning scenery on the planet. There are mountains on either side, with deep green plant life and snow-capped peaks. There are streams and waterfalls gushing and splashing all over the place. There are teeny little towns with old houses and main streets. It’s like you are moving through the set of “The Sound of Music.” RunningBarb knows you remember that one, right?

I thought about how nice it would be to live in such a lovely place. Being immersed in an environment with spectacular terrain, wildness, and nature at its pure and finest. Then I noticed my phone wasn’t receiving a cell signal. I started to wonder where the nearest grocery store was. And hey, how about a hospital? I thought maybe this idyllic spot wasn’t for me after all. But I loved the view every mile of the way.

After a while we arrived at Glenwood Springs, Colorado. Now, here is a great place to live. Grocery stores, a hospital, even great cell service! And it gets better. A river runs through it. You can enjoy white water rafting, paddling around, and (ice cold) swimming. There are bike paths, bike lanes, hiking trails, even regular ol’ sidewalks. Also a downtown area with shops that sell outdoor gear, vintage clothing, pot (very popular in Colorado) as well as tons of restaurants. It doesn’t stop there. There is a classic Amtrak station and local busses that go everywhere. What more could you ask for? Oh, I know – an underground cave where you can go to sweat things out.

The Yampah Spa and Vapor Caves looks like an ordinary building from the outside. You enter, get checked in, and they give you a nice robe. You go into a locker room and change into your swimsuit. Then you are ready to descend into the cave. But first, lots of warnings. The cave is hot – around 110-112 degrees Fahrenheit, 43-45 degrees Celsius. There are all kinds of medical cautions around – check with your doctor, don’t use if you have high blood pressure or a heart condition, blah blah blah. They also recommend that you stay down there no longer than 10-15 minutes and come up and cool off.

As I was going down a woman was coming up, pretty much staggering up the stairs. I asked her if she was all right. “No,” she replied. I asked if there was anything I could do. “No,” she replied. She finally made her way to the top. That steamy heat can really pack a wallop.

Anyway, I kept going. Once you are at the bottom of the stairs there are three rooms you can check out, with benches in each one. The air in the vapor caves is – well- vapory. Also sulphury. It’s dark, although there are lights placed here and there so you can see where you are going. You can observe and hear water flowing and gurgling near the sides of the cave. 

I found myself a seat in an empty room and closed my eyes, soaking in the heat, the smell, the wet. It’s hard to gauge your time in a place like that. I stayed until my body told me it wanted to cool down. Then I went back up the stairs to the atrium, where there were jugs of lemon water and soft music playing, and lots of lounge chairs. I sat there for a while, downing the cool water while thinking about how lucky I was to be in such a cool (so to speak) place. I imagined the first people who found the caves, before there was a such thing as a spa, before there was a such thing as the town of Glenwood Springs. It felt prehistoric and spiritual. 

Then downstairs again, to the second room, then dowsing myself with cold water below, then coming back up, then down, then up a bunch of times. Then it was time for my foot massage, which only made the experience even more delicious.

A few more downs and ups, and then I decided I had to get back to the outside world. I took a shower, got dressed, and went out into the bright Colorado sun. RunningBarb tried to carry the meditative feeling with me for the rest of the day. Really, the rest of my life.

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Park-ety Park Park

Building with "United States Post Office, Tonalea AZ 86044" on the front.
Glass building front with a Post Office logo on the door and washing machines visible.

Astute readers may recall that a few posts ago RunningBarb and Mr. K were journeying through the western United States, with stops in all kinds of exotic and interesting places. Let’s pick up where we left off.

After leaving the site of the famous dino tracks, we continued heading north. On the way we needed to mail some letters while doing our laundry, so we stopped at the Tonalea, Arizona Post Office, where you can do both at the same time. Yes! Laundry and mail! Two errands in one! I’m sure you’ve often wondered why your local post office doesn’t join with a nearby laundromat to make things easier for everybody. Clearly Tonalea is leading the way.

Rocky, desert area with dwellings carved out of the rock.

Next stop, Mesa Verde National Park. This is the site of ancient cliff dwellings built way back when. They were the condos of their time, way before homeowners associations and zoning requirements ruined everything. It was only May but it already felt like an inferno. But these guys looked like pretty clever dwelling places, high up, shaded and sheltered. They were created when people knew it made sense to build with the environment, not against it. There was a lot to look at. There are more than 600 cliff dwellings, Cliff Palace, the “largest known cliff dwelling in North America,” and various houses and temples.

We saw the sites and did a few (hot) hikes. After a few days we moved on to the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.  

Deep rocky canyon with river at the bottom.

Really, in the west, just about everything is a canyon. The Black Canyon is like the Grand Canyon, only smaller. It’s like Kings Canyon, too. According to the website “National Park Posters,” a scientific source of information if I ever heard of one, Kings Canyon is the deepest, followed by the Grand Canyon, then the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Poor little Great Basin Canyon comes in last. Not so Great I guess. Or maybe they used that name just to fool you.  

As in the Grand Canyon, you can hike around the rim, or you can take yerself all the way down to the bottom. (And back up, presumably.) It does not actually sound like a walk in the park. The National Park Service warns: Wilderness routes are not trails; they are unmarked, physically demanding, very steep scrambles with loose rock. 

Whoa, you better eat your Wheaties if you want to try one of these babies. One of the trails described on the web site is the Tomichi Route:

This route is considered the steepest South Rim route and is very difficult. The entire length of the route is loose rock and receives full sun exposure. There are several steep inclines near the top of the route that require scrambling. Use extra caution while descending. 

The distance down is one mile, with 1960 feet of descent. For comparison, this is the distance of three and a half Washington Monuments. Good luck!

We did some hiking and tooling around in that park – full disclosure, we did not scramble down to the bottom or back up – and then were on to our next destination: Glenwood Springs, Colorado and one of my favorite places ever, the Yampah Vapor Caves.

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Our Nation’s Capital

RunningBarb is back in the DC area now. I will be writing more about our amazing trip to national parks in the western United States soon. But I want to mention a trip I took this week to another park closer to home: the National Mall. I had been reading about a lot of changes in DC and wanted to see for myself what was happening.

I started at the Smithsonian Metro Station and walked past the Washington Monument. Here is what I found.

Fenced off area with dead grass, with the Washington Monument in the background.
View facing west.

I continued further to take a look at the National World War II Memorial. There, you are free to “Honor Our Veterans” by sitting with your feet in the water.

Sign saying "Honor Our Veterans - Sitting with your feet in the water is OK, Walking in the water is NOT OK."

A man and a woman sitting on marble steps, with feet in the water of a fountain.

Next stop, the basin formerly known as the “Reflecting Pool.”

Empty Reflecting Pool, a dark grey color, with black fabric covering fencing that surrounds it, and a few workers walking in it. The Washington Monument is in the background.
High black fencing and dense netting surrounds it.
Empty Reflecting Poll with tire tracks visible and the Washington Monument and Capitol in the background.
A group of people examine tire tracks at the bottom of the pool.

On my way towards the Lincoln Memorial I was surprised to see a new memorial being built. It carries the logo of “USAA,” which I learned is a banking and insurance company.

Black iron structure being built with sign in front that reads "The National Military Monument."

Saw members of the National Guard at work.

Three National Guardsmen and two tourists posing for a photo in front of the Lincoln Memorial.

I wanted to keep going with my learning experience, so I headed over to The Kennedy Center. On the way I was stopped by the appearance of yet another memorial being built, the Desert Shield and Desert Storm Memorial.

Fenced off area with a sign reading "Desert Shield and Desert Storm Memorial Construction.'

Ironically, just across the street stood the United States Institute of Peace. According to Wikipedia, this institution is an “American independent, nonprofit, national institute established and funded by the United States Congress and tasked with promoting conflict resolution and prevention worldwide.” I noticed that the name of a president recently had been carved into the wall above the institution name.

Building with two American flags and the words "Donald J. Trump United States Institute of Peace."

Now on up to The Kennedy Center. This is what it has looked like since June:

Large marble building with the letters "The John . . . rming Arts" with the letters "F. Kennedy Center for the Perfo" covered by a giant tarp. An empty fountain pool is in the foreground.
Note the empty fountain pool in the foreground.

Next, The White House. Unfortunately, I could not get near it, because areas that used to be open to the public are now closed and inaccessible due to several blocks’ worth of iron fencing and opaque black fabric in every direction.

High iron fence stretching blocks long.
The large area around The White House is encircled by this fencing.

Iron fence with blue sign showing directions, including an arrow for the White House.
Iron fence with "Restricted Area, Do Not Enter" sign behind it.
People are forbidden to go into sites they used to enter freely.
Group of tourists standing in front of a locked iron gate. White House, a giant crane, and the Washington Monument are in the distance.

The White House with two large cranes next to it, and a barrier to stop cars with the word "STOP" on it.
Managed to snag this shot when a car was driving out of the grounds. As you probably know, the East Wing of The White House has been demolished, hence the cranes.

Well, that was the ending point for my little tour. However, I would like to point out another proposed project: The “United States Triumphal Arch.” At more than twice the height of the Lincoln Memorial, across from which it would be placed, the proposed arch is opposed by veterans groups, local planning authorities, and others. If you would like to share your opinion, please go to this link and type your views by the deadline, July 30. Anyone can comment.

Well, that was my day. A trip to DC used to mean visiting and appreciating iconic and historical structures and landmarks. My trip yesterday left me feeling a little sick.

Have you been downtown recently? How did you react?

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More Muir

Waterfall down a wall of rock.

Faithful readers of this blog are aware that RunningBarb’s trip to national parks in California piqued my interest in John Muir, an early environmentalist and founder of the Sierra Club. I wanted to learn more, so I got my mitts on the biography “A Passion for Nature: The Life of John Muir” by Donald Worster. An excellent and informative book.

Muir’s writings on nature reflected his belief that God (his vision of God) was to be found in the wild places on the earth. He wrote as though canyons and rock spires were churches and cathedrals, better than the real ones.

Muir was born in Scotland and came to the United States with his family when he was 11. His father, Daniel, decided to bring them because he rejected the doctrines of churches in Scotland, which he felt did not adhere to the principals of the Christian Bible. He wanted to be his own clergyman. Once in the United States, John was put to work farming on Daniel’s land from sun up to sun down, six days a week. 

The elder Muir attempted to control the younger’s labor and religious beliefs through threats, beatings, sermons, isolation, and deprivation. Despite the abuse, John managed to learn a little about the ways that others lived. He read and was fascinated by a book by Alexander von Humboldt about his travels in South America.* He sometimes overheard conversations by neighbors that demonstrated a gentleness and open mindedness than his father did not possess. He was looked after by community members who were concerned about his well-being. Muir began to see that not everyone subscribed to his father’s beliefs.

Crevassed rock and trees in foreground, snow topped mountains in distance, puffy clouds in a blue sky.

As he grew into adulthood he became adept at inventing devices to save labor in farming and sawmilling. This type of endeavor met with approval by Scots and Scottish Americans, as it was seen as a way of serving God and humankind. His father did not agree, seeing efforts to reduce human labor as the work of the devil.

While in college he and some friends went on a trek in the back country, planning to travel for three months. Although the trip ended after only three weeks, it was enough to imbue Muir with the desire to see more of the wild earth. A few years later he took a “long walk” from Louisville, Kentucky to the Gulf of Mexico. After being struck with malaria there he felt that California’s environment might be healthier, so he travelled by steamship and train to the Golden State. He began exploring Yosemite and the Sierra Nevada Mountains and writing about his adventures. Although lacking academic credentials, he researched the history and movement of glaciers and their role in creating the area canyons. He rubbed elbows with folks like Clarence King, head of the U.S. Geological Survey.**

Tree with damaged trunk growing on rocky outcrop.

Well, the guy lived a long life, marrying and fathering two daughters, running a farm of his own, travelling all over the world, writing books and articles, and trying to get the public to appreciate the natural world. He saw that damage that had been done by cutting down trees indiscriminately, damming rivers, and allowing toxins into the air and water. He believed that access to nature should be available to all human beings so that they can experience the joy of it and desire to protect it. Maybe everyone can find (their version of) God.

Muir’s influence carries on today. On the penultimate page of the book we read:

All those efforts at nature preservation, protecting the high and the mighty, the extraordinary and the ordinary, the obscure and the beloved, flow out of the worldview of liberal democracy. Modern societies have not only sought to preserve Nature in all her forms but also to open those preserved places to any and all human beings, regardless of class or ethnicity, far more so than our universities, country clubs, or gated communities. In that preservation effort they have acknowledged a moral obligation beyond the human species. Americans, like other peoples, have followed Muir’s youthful trail of passion toward a more comprehensive egalitarianism in our relations with the earth. 

Amazing how much one person can sway the trajectory of history.

*A great read about Humboldt is “The Invention of Nature” by Andrea Wulf.

** King has an interesting backstory of his own. Late in life he fell in love with an African-American woman, Ada Copeland. Since interracial relationships were banned, the White, blond haired, blue-eyed King convinced Ada that he was Black and worked as a Pullman porter. He would tell everyone he was off on a train trip and instead go to work on a geological project. No one questioned him because why would a White person pretend to be Black? Read his story in “Passing Strange: A Gilded Age Tale of Love and Deception Across the Color Line” by Martha A. Sandweiss.

Sandy trail with rocks and a group of purple flowers on the edge of a rock.

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Making Tracks

Hand painted sign saying "Dinosaur Tracks Open" under a ramshackle wooden shelter.

Okay, now we had visited both the South and the North Rims of the Grand Canyon. How lucky is that? Our next stop was Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado, a mere six hour drive across the Arizona desert. What will we see along the way? The great thing about winging it the way we do is that we take all kinds of surprising detours and find out really cool stuff. This time was no different.

I was perusing the 2015 edition of our (paper) road atlas, and I noticed a little square marked “Dinosaur Tracks.” Now if there is anything RunningBarb likes to see it’s the footprints of animals who lived a million bazillion years ago. As we barreled on down the highway to the site, we spotted a giant, colorful, hand-painted sign indicating where to turn. I was a little puzzled, as normally state and national landmarks are noted with brown and white signs. We bumped on down the small lane and were ready to park when a man hurried out of a small wooden hut and held up his hand for us to stop. He approached the car and introduced himself. Turns out this was neither state nor federal land, it was Navaho land. 

Albert told us that if we wanted to see the tracks we would have to pony up some dough to pay a guide, i.e., him. That seemed fair. Why shouldn’t the Navaho earn some $ from their resources?

So we agreed and were on our way. He took us for a walking tour around the site, pointing out tracks of totosauruses, kleptodactyls, and rhinoraptors. Really, I can’t remember all the names of the critters he mentioned but I didn’t care. The prints were incredible. They were large and well-defined. Some were small (babies?) and some were large (daddies?). They looked like they were made when the creatures stepped into deep mud, and the mud hardened and turned to something like stone. In the national parks you are not allowed to get too close to artifacts like this. I felt really guilty stepping all over the site, but it was hard not to. The tracks were everywhere. I also kinda thought that if the area had survived for 60 gajillion years, then my size eights would not cause harm.

Several three toed footprints in the clay soil.
Several three toed footprints in clay soil.

Albert learned about dinosaurs from archeologists who visited the site over the years. Many of the bones found there were dug up and carted away for research at Northern Arizona University. Albert also had some interesting stories to tell. He said that he had spotted Sasquatch in the area a number of times. Unfortunately, no footprints were left to be seen. Also, when he was a boy, Albert had been abducted by aliens. They were small green men with black oval eyes. They took him aboard their spaceship. He does not remember what happened there, but then they brought him back to the area where they had taken him from. 

Dinosaurs, Sasquatch, and aliens. This certainly was a happenin’ spot. I’m glad we still had a paper map that pointed out stuff like this, and that we followed the cool sign. It was eye-opening to see these fossils and learn Albert’s story. 

Dinosaur track that appears to be around two feet long, with a person's foot below it for comparison.
Bigfoot, small foot.

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