A funny thing about the Theodore Roosevelt National Park is that it straddles the line between Central Time Zone and Mountain Time Zone, so your watch keeps flipping back and forth. Is it two o’clock or three o’clock? Time for lunch, or a mid-morning snack? Too early to go to bed, or bring on the Sandman? It’s very confusing. Lucky I got my nails done before we left.
Okay, now it is time to get up close and personal with nature by taking a hike. We perused our pocket map to see what trails were around. We decided to take one that started at Peaceful Valley Ranch. Idyllic, eh?
In the beginning of a trail you cross the Little Missouri River, which at that time of the year is pretty low. You can hop from rock to rock to cross it. Soon we were climbing uphill to the Big Plateau Trail. We passed a village of prairie dogs. Those guys make all sorts of chirping noises as you pass, I think to warn others that RunningBarb is in the hood. Then they pass it on, and it’s a whole whisper down the lane kind of thing. The prairie dogs pop out of their various ground holes, then jump back down into them, then another critter jumps up and sounds the alarm, and it just goes on and on. Haha, we laugh and think they’re funny and cute, but if they decided to rise up against us it would be game over.



We made our way up to the plateau of the name and things evened out a bit. When I am in an area that I think of as classicly Western – that is, the hills going on in perpetuity, no visible source of water, with the sun blazing – I think of the movie Treasure of the Sierra Madre, where Humphrey Bogart and a couple of other guys go searching for gold in the Sierra Madre Mountains. No roads, no trail signs, no GPS, no cell signal, no Holiday Inn, no diet Coke. How did those guys do it?
My thoughts were interrupted by the sight of a bison not far from the trail. The National Park Service advises you to leave the distance of two bus lengths between you and certain big-ass animals like bison. I looked at the trail. Then at Mr. Bison. Then at the trail. Two bus lengths? What kind of bus are we talking about? Greyhound? Ride-On? School bus? I thought about those videos on YouTube where people got gored because they wanted a closer pic. I wondered how badly I needed those Instagram likes.
We went off the trail a bit to stay far away, then picked it up again. He didn’t seem to care. Brush with danger averted!
We continued on the path, trudging in the heat. Saw some gigantic critter bones. We crossed a couple of little streams with wood planks over them serving as bridges. Soon we came to – outdoor surprise! – more bison, a group this time. How are we going to get around those big boys? Then we realized we had a bigger problem. It was time to cross another stream, and this time there was no bridge. We walked up and down the bank, scoping it out, thinking that surely someone, somebody had built something here that we could cross. What’s wrong with you people? After wearing out the bank with our footprints we decided to do our best at rock-hopping and managed to get over without getting too wet. On the other side the bison had had enough of us and had moved on.
We continued on the desert-like plain, sweating like, well, Humphrey Bogart, when in the distance we spotted a thin, tall object sticking up out of the ground. Hm, that doesn’t look like a prairie dog. Or a rock formation. Or an underfed hiker. As we drew closer we saw that it was a thin metal pipe. And there was water flowing out of it. Totally biblical. I marched over and dunked my head under it like, 50 times. Freezing cold! There was also a primitive bathtub next to it. Imagine coming home from a long day of treasure hunting, filling your tub, knocking back some dark whiskey from your hip flask, and taking a long soak. Dreamy.


















































