Hitting Bottom

We arrived at the Backcountry Information Center in time for the Hikers’ Express Shuttle Bus, which dropped us off at the South Kaibab Trail Trailhead. The bus was full of adventurers wanting to make their way to the bottom of the Canyon. And back up again. (That goes without saying.) Staying overnight below the Canyon rim is a highly coveted activity, which requires a permit, of which there are very few. We were riding with a chosen group. 

As the doors to the bus closed, the clouds opened, revealing a bright sun and blue skies. The first mile or so of the trail would be full of ice, so we strapped our microspikes onto our boots and were on our way. 

It was delicious. The trail was icy but easily navigable with our high-tech tools. Walking downhill was easy – gravity did most of the work. As we descended into the Canyon it opened up to us, revealing its colors, shapes, and shadows. We reached a place called “Ooh Aah Point.” Guess you can figure out how it got its name. We passed mule trains, the only means of moving goods between the rim and the bottom. We came across other hikers, all experiencing their own connection with this magnificent place. We stopped again and again to simply look around and marvel: “Are we really here? Are we really doing this?” 

Of the six million people who visit the Grand Canyon each year, only a small percentage go below the rim, and here we were going to the very limit. How were we deserving of this gift?

As we got lower the ice cleared out, the microspikes came off, and dirt, stone, and mud was our surface. Much of the trail was built as steps. It was structured and organized. We faced an array of weather: sunny skies, heavy clouds, snow, hail, and then clearing again. Often these changes occurred within 20 seconds of each other. When we saw the Colorado River from the trail we began to get excited. Our goal was in sight!

We went lower and lower, then crossed the bridge across the river. We saw the signs for Phantom Ranch. Soon we arrived at this idyllic place where we would spend the rest of the day and the entire next day. The cabin we would be staying in was built in 1922. It contained two bunk beds, a cold water sink, and a toilet. Basic, humble, and luxurious. We had ordered a few meals from the canteen, and we brought some snacks. 

We settled in after the hike, looked around the grounds, massaged our feet, and delighted at our achievement. Or, half the achievement, that is. As the National Park Service says “Coming down is optional. Going up is mandatory.” But for this afternoon and the next day we planned to soak up the sensations of being in this unique and remarkable place.